24
Jan 12

False overunity! Digital Oszilloskoph taken from my bedini

on the scope you can see tthe wave form of the apere taken from the driving part of the bedini motor. As you can se in the next take there is a big difference in the puls with of the run cirquit part and the charging part. This tells me that my conclusion was good not to think of measuring with an ordenary v and ampere meter in order to see the total power factor of my system. It showed as in the test of the shop that you will be mislead by measerment w/o an oszillsokoph that far. This is so in my case and i’m shure in any bedini to test. Due to the struktur of the system with magnets sometimes influencing the field of the bifilar coil in rotating the puls with leads you to false testing all the way w/o the oszilloskoph. In my case the peak input amp is 1,89 watts. The peak wats on the secendary battery is 2,66 whats. This whould firsthand or with single multimeter lead to the idea of a powerfaktor above 1. This than whould be overunity !!! But, when you calculate the waveforms all over and go by this you will find the taken input is 236 mWatts and the output to charge the secondary battery is 165mWatts. So we are at 67% or a power factor of 0,67. This is in fact for that primitiv typpe of thin with just 8 magnets and 1 bifilar coil still pretty impressiv. If you now whold switch between the run and the charging battrey at point before the battery runs flat it whould run in a total quit some time longer. My expert where the shots are done coult tell by his experience

Electronics Resistors


19
Jan 12

Measuring A Capacitor Using Timing

*** PLEASE READ: This is another way to measure the value of a capacitor. I have a beter method in another video, but this is one often mentioned due to that a signal generator (ie sine wave frequency) is not needed. For safety, discharge any capacitor before working with it. Use some resistance (lower than the resistance of air) value across its terminals. Some capacitors are “polarized” and can only be charged with the positive voltage connected to the (+) terminal, and the negative voltage connected to the (-) terminal, otherwise it will probably explode. This method here will work good for higher value capacitors, say 500uF up and up. Choose a resistor so that the capacitor can discharge reasonably slow, for greater accuracy in the results, hence a larger resistor, perhaps 1K to 10K. The smaller the capacitor being measured, the greater the resistance needed so that you can visually see the voltage levels and for accuracy since a small capacitor discharges very rapidly. The problem then will be that that the internal resistance of the meter starts to have greater effect on the overall (ie parallel) resistance in the test circuit. Here is a stopwatch timer on this webpage: www.online-stopwatch.com A good capacitor will hold its voltage for quite a time. A bad one has “leakage” (or current flow) through the dielectric material seperating the plates of the capacitor. It is possible to refurbish a capacitor a bit using a “voltage treatment”… bring the voltage up across

Accident Injury Lawyer Cartier Rings


12
Jan 12

Extech EX623 400A Dual Input AC/DC Clamp Meter + NCV + IR Thermometer

AC/DC Clamp-on meter with built-in dual Thermocouple inputs, NCV Detector and InfraRed Thermometer Features: True RMS measurements for accurate AC Voltage and Current measurements Dual type K thermocouple input with Differential Temperature function (T1, T2, T1-T2) Built-in non-contact IR Thermometer with laser pointer for locating hot spots (up to 518°F/270°C) Built-in non-contact Voltage detector with LED alert DC µA multimeter function for HVAC flame rod Current measurements Data Hold plus fast Peak Hold of current surges during motor startup 40000 count multimeter functions for DC Voltage, Resistance, Capacitance, and Frequency for high resolution over wider ranges Measures motor capacitors to 40000µF 1.25″ (32mm) jaw opening for conductors up to 500MCM Rugged double molded housing Auto power off with audible alert and disable function Autoranging with manual override 8 to 1 distance to target ratio Complete with CAT III-600V, double molded test leads, 9V battery, two Type K bead wire probes (-22 to 572°F/-30 to 300°C), and case Available at Tequipment.NET Video by Extech.

Instant Decision Health And Safety Software Internet Domain Registration


06
Jan 12

Amprobe PM55A Digital Multimeter

The compact precision DMM with AutoTect and VolTect The ultimate shirt-pocket sized meter. Only 3/8″ thick and less than 3 oz in weight with full functionality offering ac and dc voltage to 600 V, AC and DC current to 2000 µA, resistance to 6 Megohm, capacitance to 2000 µF, frequency to 30 kHz, diode test and continuity w/beeper. It also offers VolTect, a built-in, non-contact voltage detector for AC voltages. Another key feature is AutoTect, which automatically selects between AC voltage, DC voltage or resistance measurement based on the test point to which the leads are connected. Fully autoranging, this meter offers nine different measurement functions plus features that are usually found in much more expensive and larger meters. The digital display is oversized with large digits and unit icons in the display. In spite of its size, this meter is fully safety rated to CAT III 300 V, CAT II 600 V and is UL approved. No other meter this small offers such performance and high safety ratings. Includes a silicone protective holster, deluxe carrying case, attached test leads, battery and manual. Available at Tequipment.NET

no win no fee solicitor Apache Ant


04
Jan 12

My Motorcycle Won’t Start! What Now?

Maintain your Battery and check your charging system!

9 times out of 10 the reason why your bike won’t start is usually because of the battery condition or loose connections. A charging system failure is less likely but is still possible.

I will talk about both of them here.

First look at your battery connections. Check for obvious and easiest to fix problems first. A loose connection, poor ground etc. will likely cause intermittent operation of the starting and charging systems. If you find a loose connection and/or corrosion, clean the connections with a wire brush.

Before re-attaching apply a little grease to the contact points. The grease helps to prevent any of the white corrosion residues building up around the battery terminals.

Try and start her up now. You still have a problem? Go down to the mall and buy yourself a small electronic multimeter. (Make sure it has both AC and DC volt functions, as well as a continuity (or OHMS)function. Pull out the battery and set it on a counter. Set your multimeter to DC volts. Measure the Battery voltage by placing the red lead on the positive and the Black on the negative.

The voltage read should be around 12.5 volts (higher is OK) If the voltage is less than this it may indicate a poor battery. Notice I say, “may” here because the bike’s charging system might be at fault. In this case the battery will most likely be OK.

Confirm that the electrolyte level in each cell of the battery is good. Add distilled water only to cell’s with a low level. (Obviously you cannot add water to a maintenance free battery) Charge the battery overnight with a slow charger only. Motorcycle batteries cannot handle a fast charge. Make sure the charger only charges at a rate of 2 amps or less.

Install the battery and try and start her again. If she still won’t go buy a new battery and your problem will likely be fixed. If she starts and runs like a charm, then you have to find out why the battery went dead. You need to check the charging system.

With the engine running, place the multimeter leads on the battery. Rev the engine a little. The system voltage should rise with engine RPM. A voltage of around 13.5 to about 14.5 should be displayed. If the voltage stays constant and/or is slowly decreasing, or if the voltage rises above 14.7 volts the charging system is not functioning.

What do you do now? You have to check two things. The Stator and the Regulator. The stator creates an AC voltage. The regulator changes the AC to DC voltage and also maintains that voltage at the proper level.

The Stator can be checked with the Ohms function on your meter. Locate and remove the plug for the stator on the front of the engine block. You will see two or three pins inside.

Set the meter for low Ohms, and measure the continuity between these pins. 5 Ohms or less is what you are looking for here. Set the meter to the highest setting. With 1 lead attached to a metal part of bike check for continuity to each pin. You meter should read infinite, or no continuity. If these tests check out then your stator is fine. If there is a fault in any of these tests, then see your dealer

The regulator is the easiest of all to check. The regulator is made of solid state electronics and can’t be opened. Replace the regulator if everything else on the charging system checks out or if there is an overcharging situation.

On most Harley’s you will not know if the charging system is beginning to fail. The evidence shows up when you have dim lights or she just won’t start. There are aftermarket accessories that you can install on your bike that will tell you the current state of the charging system.

Save yourself some bucks here!! With a simple multimeter available from any Electronics parts store you can troubleshoot your charging system and check your battery and most likely repair any problems yourself.

Family Law Lawyer